Umpqua NF

Acker Rock L.O.

Oregon Lookouts

Location.

Umpqua National Forest

Status.

Rental Program; Currently Standing

Estimated drive time from Portland, OR.

4-1/2 hours

Date visited.

May 12, 2024

Elevation.

4,112′

National Historic Lookout Register.

US 355; OR 41

Trip Report.

We still had one more night of our trip but I had fudged the reservation at Pickett Butte and only booked two nights. We brought all our gear to disperse camp for the final night. The trickiest part would be locating a good spot to camp. We got up early enough to pack up our things and clean up the fire lookout before locking up. Always try to leave it better than you found it. We headed back out to the paved CR-46 and turned right to head deeper into the forest. If you stay on CR-46 long enough it eventually turns into NF-28 once you have reached the forest boundary. We drove a little bit past our turn for Acker Rock to check out the South Umpqua Falls first. This is a popular swimming area in the summer when the water and current are not as strong. There were still a handful of people here trying to take advantage of the warm weekend in the shallower areas. We didn’t stay too long since the day was only getting warmer and we didn’t want to be hiking in the heat of the day if possible.

We back tracked a bit to cross the South Umpqua River on NF-29 and followed this to NF-2838 off to the left. We stayed on NF-2838 until we reached the gated NF-950 where the road walking would begin. There were a couple signs for Acker Rock along this route that made it easy to navigate. This is a rentable fire lookout as well, but the season is much shorter and it does not open until August 1st. We decided to visit outside of the rental season since it’s directly on the ground and would make it hard to visit without disturbing the renters. There was one other car parked near the gate when we arrived and we could only assume they were at the lookout. If you are renting, you should get a code to unlock the gate to drive closer. Though there is still a short but steep 0.4 mile hike to the fire lookout to be aware of. We packed a lunch to have at the lookout and began our road walk. It’s fairly straight forward. We followed the road until it dead ends in a parking/turn around area. From there, it turns into more of a trail that switchbacks up the side of the ridge. You will pass the exposed composting toilet on your way up and hope that no one is using it at the time of your visit (or hope that no comes up while you are using it). There were some smaller downed trees we had to navigate around at the start of the trail, but I’d be surprised if someone hadn’t cleaned them up since our visit. There was no one else at the lookout when we arrived and we didn’t run into anyone along the road either. We speculated that maybe the vehicle was abandoned or they were wondering somewhere off trail. We eventually got our answer as we saw two guys rock climbing up the other side of the ridge. One of them came over to check out the lookout while we were having lunch and gave himself a scare when he didn’t hear us. We spent a good chunk of time hanging out at this lookout since the only thing left to do for the day was find a place to camp.

The Strava app calculated this hike at 3.08 miles RT with 1,025′ of elevation gain. You can assume the road is around 1-1/2 miles from the gate to the summit. We ended up camping off the side of a road in a grassy pull out for the night. We passed up a couple different official dispersed spots given their location or otherwise. Not all dispersed camp spots end up being what we want and are more about convenience for the night. There were a couple of campgrounds in the area, but we had passed on those as well.

History.

Acker Rock was first established as a fire lookout site in 1932-1934 when a 14×14 L-4 gable roofed ground cabin was built on the summit. At the time the lookout was accessible by driving 21 miles outside of Tiller and then hiking an additional 3 miles. It was noted as possibly being used as a lookout point prior to this but no structure was utilized. It was replaced in 1963-1964 by the current R-6 flat cab structure and was staffed until at least the late 1980’s. Given the precarious location of the lookout, replacing the structure was no easy task and required helicopter assistance. A news article from 1963 stated “the lookout house appeared to be supported on one side by rock and on the other by little more than imagination”. In 2006, the roof was replaced and needed repairs were completed before it was added to the current rental program.

Red Mountain L.O. (Tiller Ranger Station)

Oregon Lookouts

Location.

Umpqua National Forest

Status.

Maintained for educational purposes

Estimated drive time from Portland, OR.

4 hours

Date visited.

May 10, 2024

Elevation.

4,797′ (original)

National Historic Lookout Register.

US 911; OR 116

Trip Report.

After heading back down from Bland Mountain (post), we continued our route along county HWY-1 to reach the community of Tiller. The ranger station is easily located after crossing the South Umpqua River on the left hand side. The office building was already closed for the evening but you are still welcome to explore the grounds. The access to the re-located fire lookout is found to the right of the main parking lot via a short trail. You can see the fire lookout from the lot and it is well signed for access. The lookout was closed up for our visit, but I believe they open it up to visitors during working hours upon request. Despite being well cared for throughout the years, it is definitely starting to show its age. I’m curious to see if access and maintenance on the lookout will change once the rangers are relocated to Canyonville. I would guess that it would make it and the other historic buildings onsite an easier target for vandals. Strava tracked the walk as only 0.24 miles RT with not enough elevation change to register. There wasn’t much to note about out visit except there is a spigot in the parking lot that provides water to the public. After taking a refreshing rinse, we continued on into the forest for the weekend.

History.

The original site of Red Mountain was developed in 1921 by adding a 25′ platform crows nest with tent camp. A D-6 style 12’x12′ cupola cabin was added to the site in 1928. The fire lookout was actively staffed into the 1960s. It sat unused on the site until it was relocated to the Tiller Ranger Station in the fall of 1985. There is a dedication plaque on the lookout crediting Roy O. Brogden, District Ranger 1984-1998, with heading the relocation and restoration efforts in this area. Restoration work was completed in June 1986 by a combined effort of the Forest Service, State Historic Preservation Office, and the National Advisory Council on Historic Preservation. Additional restoration work was completed in 2000 by community volunteers in celebration of National Public Lands day. The site is open to self guided tours at anytime, but the lookout itself is locked. You can inquire about gaining access between Monday through Friday from 8am to 3:30pm. I’m unsure if access to the interior will be available after they move the Rangers stationed here to Canyonville.

Pickett Butte L.O.

Oregon Lookouts

Location.

Umpqua National Forest

Status.

Rental program; Currently standing

Estimated drive time from Portland, OR.

4 hours

Date visited.

May 10th-12th, 2024

Elevation.

3,292′

National Historic Lookout Register.

US 354; OR 40

Trip Report.

It seems that stumbling upon available fire lookout reservations has been our luck. We have yet to actively seek out renting a fire lookout, but have simply been looking at the recreation.gov page at the right time. This was how we acquired our Steliko Point (post) reservation and that is essentially how we acquired this one. I feel fortunate in this aspect since some people attempt for years to get certain reservations with no luck. We were searching for potential places to travel during my birthday trip in April and stumbled upon Pickett Butte availability. At first glance we thought the dates were for April, but quickly realized it was available during Garnet’s birthday weekend in May instead. We decided to roll the dice and book it with hopes of it being snow free with decent weather. It is a fairly low elevation fire lookout, so the main concern was how the weather would pan out. I did end up fudging our reservation a bit because I thought I needed to wait to book the third night, only to realize I should have booked it at the same time (a little too late). This was not a big deal to us, it just meant we needed to bring more gear to accommodate dispersed camping for one of the nights we’d be gone. Somehow our gamble paid off and the weather was forecasting in the mid 80s with sunny clear skies for the whole weekend.

Friday.

We headed out via I-5 and exited in Canyonville to turn towards Tiller on the county HWY-1 making brief stops at Bland Mountain (post) and the Tiller Ranger station (post). We turned onto CR-46 that is situated right before the ranger station. We stayed on this for 3 miles until it reached a signed junction with NF-3113 off to right. The route is well signed and seemed to be well maintained. We stayed on NF-3113 for 5 miles until we reached another signed junction with NF-300. It is an additional 2 miles to the fire lookout from this junction. There is a gate below the lookout that you will need the code for if you have a reservation for the night. Otherwise, this is where you would park to walk the remaining 0.6 miles along the road. Though the best time to visit if you’re not planning to make a reservation would be from mid-June to mid-October when it is staffed for the season. Keep in mind whether you visit during the active fire season or the renter season, it is their space and inviting you up to enjoy the view is at the discretion of those onsite. The road beyond the gate had the most signs of wear with a few water runoffs starting to form across it. There were a handful of potholes along the entire route, but they were minimal and easily avoided. This is probably one of the easier rentable fire lookouts to access in Oregon. Once parked we debated what we wanted to haul up or not. We thought it would be novel to cook something in the fire lookout, but ultimately opted to leave our food/cooking at ground level. There is a crate on a hand wench system to help bring your gear up, but it’s small and would require many loads. The stairs are also narrow and steeply pitched, more so than other fire lookouts we have visited. I could see making this effort if we had planned to hang around the fire lookout all weekend. But per usual, we had our days fully packed and only hauled the essentials to the top.

Saturday.

Our plan for the day was to back track out the way we came and continue further on county HWY-1 in search of the crows nest on Callahan Mountain. All the sources we found online claimed it was still standing and should be there. There are no trails or roads that lead directly to the summit, but we were able to get close enough to hike cross country the remaining distance. After a bit of wandering around the summit Garnet was able to identify the tree by a remaining grounding wire hanging from the branch. We are happy to confirm the tree is still very much alive and well with minimal evidence that it was ever used for fire detection. After a successful find, we headed back up CR-46 passing our turn off for Pickett Butte and continuing on to Cathedral Falls and the (former) World’s Tallest Sugarpine. There was some debate prior to our trip about adding in a former fire lookout site, but we were already feeling the fatigue from the heat and decided to enjoy a more leisurely afternoon instead. We stopped at a nice spot with access to Jackson Creek along NF-29 to cool off before heading back to the lookout for the evening.

Sunday.

We spent our morning packing up our gear since we wouldn’t be coming back to Pickett Butte for the night. Our agenda for the day included a stop at South Umpqua Falls and a hike to Acker Rock. That gave us the rest of the evening to locate a dispersed camp spot in the area. We had already spotted a few around, so we knew they existed. Our day eventually ended in a grassy pull out after passing up and vetoing a couple of our more official dispersed options. Nothing felt quit right to either of us. It wasn’t our best camp spot but it wasn’t our worst either. Thankfully the temperatures were much cooler that evening which was a nice change after feeling over heated the entire trip. We both agreed this area was pretty, but we much preferred the vibe of the North Umpqua area. Monday was spent driving home and finding out we missed a spectacular show of Northern Lights after coming back into service. It was unfortunate since where we were would have been a great spot to see them if we hadn’t been asleep. We didn’t even stay up for our regular star gazing and Milky Way.

History.

Pickett Butte gets its name from the homesteader, William T. Pickett. He traveled to the area via horseback in 1898 and decided to stay. The first lookout structure was built on the butte by the CCC in 1934 as a 25′ round timber tower with L-5 cab. It was replaced in 1941 by the current 41′ treated timber tower with L-4 cab. It was actively staffed up until the late 1990s. Eventually it was moved to the rental program for recreational use. In 2001, it was moved back into active duty to be staffed during the fire season while only offering this as a rental during the off season. As far as I can tell, this still remains to be true.

More information.

Recreation.gov

US Forest Service

Garwood Butte L.O.

Oregon Lookouts

NOTICE: This area was apart of the July 20, 2024 closure area for the Diamond Complex fires but has since been reopened. This area does not appear to have been impacted.

Location.

Umpqua National Forest

Status.

Abandoned; Currently standing

Estimated drive time from Portland, OR.

4-1/2 hours

Date visited.

July 30, 2022

Elevation.

7,017

National Historic Lookout Register.

US 1615; OR 139

Trip Report.

UPDATE: October 12, 2024 – while we were camping in the area we had drove down the NF-3703 road and it appears to have been regravelled recently which eliminated the majority of the potholes and hazards we originally saw. They were minor then but almost non existent now. We didn’t drive the entire way to the NF-370 spur but I assume the spur road conditions are still the same.

Oregon has been in a heat advisory for the last week with temperatures ranging in the mid to high 90s. It even briefly jump up into the low 100s a couple of those days. A haze was expected to settle over all of Oregon for the weekend due to a new wildfire in northern California. Is it too soon to say I miss the rain? Anyway, what better time to head into the forest than when you’re sweltering at home? It turns out it’s pretty hot out there too. But, my partner and I headed on as we always do. This weekend we set our sights on Garwood Butte. We figured we could do The Watchman (post) or Mount Stella (post) while in the area too. Yes, both were also an option. It’s a bit of a drive for a one-night trip, but we’ve come to the conclusion that we’re a bit crazy. Garwood Butte has been on our minds for a while. Mostly, because my partner’s name is Garnet and he goes by Gar on occasion. I couldn’t possibly visit Garwood without him. For this reason alone, we felt a connection to the fire lookout. It’s also just a really cute L-4 perched on top of a rocky outcropping with views towards Mount Bailey and the Crater Lake rim. What’s not to love about that? We had originally thought about adding it to our road trip itinerary, but were worried about the potential for snow. After our visit to Pig Iron (post), we could see it was snow free and that it would be accessible for a future visit to the area this year.

Start of the NF-370 spur
Parking Spot
First glimpse of Garwood

Our alarms were set for 6AM and we were on the road as early as possible. We headed down the I-5 corridor once more, but this time cut over on HWY-58 to meet up with HWY-97. We gave a quick wave to Odell Butte L.O. and Walker Mountain L.O. (post) as we drove past their marked highway turn offs. After a quick refuel in our now frequented stop in Chemult, we turned on to HWY-138 towards Crater and Diamond Lake. We passed the north entrance to Crater Lake NP and stayed on HWY-138 until we reached the turn for HWY-230 off to the left. I have been through this area a few times now on various different trips throughout the years. We were also familiar with the route due to an unsuccessful attempt of Garwood during our visit to Cinnamon Butte (post) last December. From HWY-230, we turned right at the access for Three Lakes Sno-Park. We continued straight to stay on NF-3703 until we reached the turn off for NF-370 spur. There were minimal potholes and ruts to avoid along the NF-3703 road. We didn’t even have to attempt a drive up the NF-370 spur to see it wasn’t a drive-able road. There were large ruts and rocks embedded in it that were not low-clearance compatible. The road is marked but the sign is sun-bleached and indecipherable. It is best identified by its terrible condition and a ski post marked with the number 36. We parked in a pull out just past the road. It was already noon by the time we got there, so we decided to have lunch in the comforts of our air conditioned car instead of the summit. While we were hiding out in the car, an ATV came brapping by and waited at the NF-370 junction. At first, we were confused on what they were doing or thought maybe they stopped because they were confused by what we were doing. But then, another ATV followed which triggered the first one to head up the road. When the second ATV reached the junction it proceeded to wait as well. The same thing continued to repeat itself until 8 ATVs had turned up the NF-370 spur. We weren’t too keen on starting a road walk that we knew would end in us being dusted up and decided to wait. The road eventually just dead ends and they would have to come back down. Luckily, we didn’t have to wait long and their brapping continued on to somewhere else.

Start of Connector Trail
Where the Connector Trail meets the road again
Beginning of Main Trail

It was hot and dusty when we started our hike up the road. We knew it was roughly two miles to the Fire Lookout from the junction, if you stayed on the road and didn’t use the connector trail. As we walked along, the road conditions continued to deteriorate with larger embedded rocks, downed trees, and wash out. There was a point in the road where the ATVs even turned around. A large tree had come down across it and there wasn’t enough room on either side for them to get around. Ah, that’s why they didn’t take long. It would have required a chain saw to remove it. We both agreed, this was officially the worst road we’ve been on so far. I took some pictures of the road, but it never quite captures the true conditions. We eventually reached a more open area with a view of Garwood Butte. There was a defined trail off to the left that we assumed was the connector trail. A peakbagger report had mentioned this trail was no longer here in 2012, but from what we could see it was now. If you take this trail you can cut off a half of a mile of road walking. It meets back up with the road where the official trail #1471 to Garwood Butte begins. There is no official trail sign, but it was a well defined junction. If you have trouble finding it, always look for the cut logs first. As we headed up the trail, it appeared to have been brushed out more recently. It was clear to us that someone had been taking care of this route somewhat regularly despite the road conditions. It was a hot and slightly humid slog to the summit. The trail switch-backed through an interestingly mixed forest until it opened up to an exposed slope. The trail was in great condition besides a few loose sections that made finding my footing more difficult.

My partner reached the summit before me and was already making his rounds on the catwalk as I tried not to completely wilt away in the sun. I always seem to struggle more than him, specifically on steeper trails and in the heat. Partially, because I’m not in as good of shape but there are various other reasons as well. Garwood has a really nice summit on the edge of a rock that dropped off to views of the drainage below. The lookout structure was looking a bit worse for wear on the catwalk. Some of the stairs had broken and one corner was being supported by two boards. There was a sign posted on the cab mentioning the ongoing restoration, but I’m not sure if that is still active. Please use caution if you decide to climb the catwalk. We headed down after taking in the hazed over views and debated our next step. We had already found some decent dispersed camp spots and could have easily set up camp early to relax. But, there was also just enough time left in the day to move on to Mount Stella. We were both torn between wanting to maximize our short trip and just taking it easy for once. Who were we really kidding though? Of course, we headed on to Mount Stella (post).

History.

Formerly known as Bear Butte, it was renamed to Garwood Butte in 1946 to commemorate Leroy E. Garwood. Leroy was a former Forest Service District Ranger that died in March 1944. He was known as an old-timer on the forest and was the first to develop the lookout station atop the butte. The renaming also helped to eliminate another “bear” named feature within the forest. At the time the following features included the name bear; 6 Bear Creeks, 2 Bear Buttes, 2 Bear Camps, 1 Bear Bluff, 1 Bear Bones, 1 Bear Gulch, 1 Bear Lake, 1 Bear Wallows, 1 Bear Trap Mountain, and 2 Bear Mountains. Not the most creative. The structure on Garwood Butte was built in 1942 as a 14’x14′ L-4 ground cab. It was last staffed in 1973 and has since been abandoned. In 2012, the lookout was threatened by a nearby fire and had to be wrapped by fire fighters in Structure Protection Wrap. I believe it was the Butte Fire, but there were a few other larger fires during that year that could have caused this to be wrapped. There has been ongoing restoration work in more recent years, but it still needs a lot of work.

Watson Butte L.O.

Former Lookouts

NOTICE: As of July 20, 2024 this area is currently closed due to the active Diamond Complex.

Location.

Umpqua National Forest

Status.

Collapsed during the winter season 2021/2022

Estimated drive time from Portland, OR.

4-1/2 hours

Date visited.

July 2, 2022

Elevation.

5,687′

Former Fire Lookout Site Register.

US 933; OR 291

Trip Report.

Day 8/10: Lookout Road Trip 2022

We headed out from camp towards HWY-138 once more. Today we were backtracking to Watson Butte and Pig Iron (post). They are located on opposite ends of the same ridgeline. This made it an easy day for driving since they were both along the same route. From HWY-138 heading east, we turned left on to Mowich Loop Road. The road does as it describes and loops back around to HWY-138. That means there are two opportunities to turn onto this road. If you are coming from Diamond Lake, you will want to take the second turn off to the right that is across from Stump Lake near milepost 67. Technically, both will get you to where you want to go but it’s shorter from this route. We bumped down a pothole filled road until we came to a junction. If you continue straight, it will take you to the Clearwater Forebay. You will want to turn right to stay on Mowich Loop Road. There is a gate here that is seasonally closed to winter traffic. The road improved after the gate but still had a few potholes to avoid. Eventually, you will come to an unmarked T-junction. Mowich Loop Road continues to the right and NF-100 is to the left. We turned left on to NF-100. If you stay on this road it will take you all the way to the gate for Pig Iron L.O. (post). We decided to visit Watson Butte first.

NF-170 sign
Looking at Watson Saddle junction from NF-170

From NF-100, we turned on the first road off to the right. This is the NF-150 spur and does have a sign. We were slightly worried about the roads after seeing the condition of the Mowich Loop Road. The rest of the route was along three number spurs and we hoped we would be able to get close enough to make the hike. We were pleasantly surprised to find the three number roads were in better condition. The only road hazards we met along NF-150 were downed trees. Some of the trees were already cleared by tree cutters, but some were not. We had a buck saw with us and decided to do some road maintenance for the Forest Service. And by we, I mean my partner. I helped clear the area once the trees had been cut though. NF-150 eventually leads to a odd 5-way junction at the Watson Saddle. On the topo map, the road we wanted was labeled NF-164. Based on the directions from the Forest Service, you should take the road farthest to the right. Most of the roads at the junction are not marked though. We were able to find an NF-170 road marker on the road farthest to the right. This was confusing to us since it didn’t match the road numbers on the map and NF-170 should be off to the left. But, It did look like the road most traveled and was farthest off to the right as the Forest Service had recommended. We headed up NF-170 to the right until we were met with a section that started to get brushy. This made us second guess our decision and we headed back to the odd junction. We walked around the junction looking for any confirmation that NF-170 was the correct road. Eventually, we gave up and drove back up NF-170 to the brushy section. We parked in a pull out on the exposed portion of the road just past the brush and decided to start walking.

Where the old road bed starts
Where the trail starts
trail conditions
can you spot the trail?

The Manzanita and Ceanothus were encroaching on the road in some portions and there were a couple down trees, but otherwise it wasn’t in terrible shape. There was a point in the road where it opened up to a view of what we assumed to be Watson Butte. I could see signs of a structure, but it was hard to tell exactly what I was looking at from that distance. I thought it looked collapsed, but I was hopeful my view was just obstructed. We walked for about a mile until we came to the trailhead. There is still a sign noting where the Watson Butte Trail #1443 starts. There was even enough room for a couple cars to park. It is obvious that this trail doesn’t see much use. From the trailhead, it is another 1.1 miles to the summit gaining around 600′ in elevation. We started out by following an old decommissioned road bed until it met with the base of the butte. The trail started to gain more elevation once we left the road. The trail continues faintly through a mostly shaded forest. It was especially faint among the switchbacks. We were able to stay on track by looking for the trail bench in the more overgrown sections. The final push is steep, but eventually opens up to an exposed summit. My partner had made it to the summit before me and I called out to ask if it was still there. He was oddly quiet in response. Eventually, I rounded the corner and saw why. We were too late. We had known Watson Butte L.O. was in bad shape and had been for years, which is why it was on our priority list to visit. There were posts of it standing the year before and we thought we had time. But, we were still too late. Watson Butte L.O. was nothing more than a pile of boards.

I’m not sure if we were the first to discover this or even hike the trail this year, but we were the first to report on it. Nothing can prepare you for coming upon a fire lookout you thought would be standing only to find it destroyed. My partner was in disbelief and even speculated that maybe someone vandalized it. But, to me, it looked like it had succumbed to the elements and time. We had a moment of silence for the lookout that once was before heading back down. It was a sad reminder that we are not going to be able to see them all standing. Some will burn in our ever present fire season, some will be removed by the Forest Service, and others will simply waste away in time. But for now, up a confusing network of poorly marked roads to an overgrown and fading trail you can still hike to what remains of Watson Butte L.O.

History.

Umpqua National Forest Archive – Sept 1942

Normally, I only like to post pictures I’ve taken myself of the fire lookouts but I decided to make an exception for Watson Butte. This lookout was built in the 1930s as an L-4 ground cabin. The Forest Service notes this as being built in 1934, but other sources claim it was built in 1937. Either way it had been standing for at least the last 84 years. Before the lookout structure was built, it was established as a camp and a telephone line was extended to the summit in 1920. It hasn’t been actively staffed since the 1960s. At one point there was talk of salvaging it for the rental program, but this never happened. According to Facebook, the last person to have record of it standing was on May 24, 2021. It most likely collapsed under the snow during the winter of 2021/2022.

Pig Iron L.O.

Oregon Lookouts

NOTICE: As of July 20, 2024 this area is currently closed due to the active Diamond Complex.

Location.

Umpqua National Forest

Status.

Active; Currently standing

Estimated drive time from Portland, OR.

4-1/2 hours

Date visited.

July 2, 2022

Elevation.

4,881′

National Historic Lookout Register.

US 335; OR 37

Trip Report.

Day 8/10: Lookout Road Trip 2022

Seasonal gate from Mowich Loop Road
Gate from NF-100 to Pig Iron
Interesting hairy forest
Where the trail meets up with NF-100

We somberly headed back out to NF-100 after our unfortunate discovery on Watson Butte (post). Instead of heading back to Mowich Loop Road, we turned right to head to the other side of the ridge. We stayed on NF-100, which was a fairly well maintained gravel road, until we reached the gate. As described in my post about Watson Butte (post), access is from Mowich Loop Road off of HWY-138 near Stump Lake and milepost 67. Take a right at the junction with the road to Clearwater Forebay. You will pass through a seasonal gate to stay on Mowich Loop Road. Take a left at the unmarked T-junction to turn onto NF-100. From the gate, it is a mile road walk to the fire lookout. You can also access the fire lookout from Pig Iron Trail #1438, but I’ve read that it is an overgrown and steep trail. It was a fairly pleasant and flat road walk. Based on information I read online, I had thought Pig Iron was only staffed on a volunteer basis. We weren’t sure if we’d meet anyone during our visit though. Once we had a view of the lookout we could see a car parked and hoped they were friendly. We didn’t have to wait long before the lookout decided to come out and greet us. She introduced herself as Lisa and asked if we had come up the road or trail. We mentioned we had come from the road. She said her gate had been cut by vandals at some point during the beginning of the season and it was kind of scary not knowing who could drive up. Luckily, it seemed one of the Forest Service crews had recently fixed this issue. When we had walked around the gate there had been a new chain added and it was safely locked. She didn’t leave her post often, so she was relieved to hear that. We talked for a while about the surrounding area, Illahee Rock (post), the FFLA, and the importance of volunteers and advocacy within the community. We didn’t get invited up on the catwalk or in the cab, but the views were the same from the base. We mentioned our trip up to Watson Butte (post) and she said she didn’t even realize it had still been up there. She thought it had been removed a while back, possibly due to the misinformation listed on the Former Fire Lookout Site. It has since been corrected after I submitted a request to update the listing. We didn’t stay for too long since it was already fairly late in the afternoon and we still had to drive back to our base camp. We made sure to thank Lisa for her time and information before heading back to the car.

Lookout Lisa

Lisa is the current lookout attendant on Pig Iron and is employed through the Forest Service. She is accompanied by her cat. She has staffed this lookout since 2017 and was the last person to staff Illahee Rock (post) in 2016. She has worked on many different lookouts including, but not limited to, the Watchman, Mt Scott, Mt Harkness, & Pickett Butte. She started her work with the Forest Service in Air Quality which lead her to fire lookouts. She has worked as a Ranger for Crater Lake and the North Cascades National Parks. I believe she said she worked at Crater Lake NP for 15 seasons. She mentioned she used to do wilderness snowshoe trips for kids in the park. Pig Iron had recently had some work done on the catwalk, stairs, and windows due to damage during the 2021/2022 winter season.

History.

In 1950, the site on Pig Iron had been established with a fire camp. The lookout used a tent for living quarters and had a Fire Finder situated outside. There was a cover for when the Fire Finder was not in use and a small shed nearby for storage. A lookout structure was built during the same year. It is described as a 14’x14′ hip-roofed cab (the NHLR describes it as 10’x10′) with a 10′ wooden tower. It has 3’x3′ solid pane windows. It’s a similar structure to a standard L-4 design but not quite the same. It is situated below the actual summit for a better view.

Illahee Rock L.O. (Revisited)

Oregon Lookouts

Please reference our original trip report on Illahee Rock L.O. for information on the history of the lookout, status, our initial site visit, and directions (post).

Date revisited: July 1, 2022

Trip Report.

Day 7/10: Lookout Road Trip 2022

Ever since our not so graceful redemption visit to Illahee Rock, we have wanted to revisit during more ideal conditions. It wasn’t a high priority since there are so many other fire lookouts to see and only a short window to see them. But, Illahee Rock holds a special place in our hearts. It was the catalyst that triggered our pursuit to visit as many standing fire lookouts as possible. We had this as a potential add on to our road trip if conditions were favorable and we had extra time while in the area. Thanks to a recent trip report by the Wandering Yuncks we knew it’d be snow free this time too (site).

This was essentially a rest day for us from the go-go of the trip. We were already situated close to the access road for Illahee Rock and it was our only plan for the remainder of the day. We had a leisurely breakfast at camp before packing a lunch and heading out to HWY-138. The access road is fittingly named Illahee Road, which is also NF-4760. It is located just past the Umpqua’s Last Resort. You will wind up this decent gravel road for 7-1/2 miles to the junction with NF-100. Make sure to watch for fallen rocks along the way. We decided to park at this junction and walk since I recalled NF-100 having some larger potholes. After further inspection, all the potholes would have been passable to the Civic with caution. We stayed on NF-100 for about a mile before we reached the NF-104 spur off to the left. This will take you to the trailhead. The NF-104 spur is pretty overgrown and rocky. I wouldn’t attempt driving it in a low-clearance vehicle. From the trailhead, it is a short hike to the summit. It was really nice to see everything snow free for a change. The trail is still in great shape, even after the fires, with only a few downed trees to navigate. The wildflowers were in bloom too and we had commanding views in every direction. There is a hole in the catwalk that someone had cut just big enough for access. It was here during our last visit as well, but I didn’t have the energy to climb through it then. Also, in case it needs to be said, please do not cut holes in the catwalks of fire lookouts. But, since it was already there, I decided to get a better look. We had the trail and summit to ourselves aside from a kettle of Turkey Vultures that checked us out. I knew I didn’t smell great, but it must have been much worse than I thought to attract the Vultures. They eventually realized we weren’t road kill and moved on to something else. We enjoyed our lunch on the catwalk and soaked in the sunshine before heading back to the car.

The next day we were able to get a bit more clarification on the status of Illahee Rock from the lookout attendant we met on Pig Iron (post). She was the last lookout to staff Illahee Rock in 2016. She didn’t go into details on why they stopped staffing it or if they planned to staff it again. We could tell she was very passionate about Illahee Rock and would’ve preferred to be stationed there instead. The Forest Service had moved her to Pig Iron (post) as an alternative. Any friend of Illahee Rock is a friend to her.

Illahee Rock L.O.

Oregon Lookouts

NOTICE: As of July 20, 2024 this area is currently closed due to the active Diamond Complex.

Location.

Umpqua National Forest

Status.

Abandoned; Currently standing

Estimated drive time from Portland, OR.

6 hours

Date visited.

May 1, 2021

Elevation.

5,392′

National Historic Lookout Register.

US 98; OR 13

Trip Report.

The first time my partner and I thought about visiting Illahee Rock Lookout was on my birthday weekend in April 2021. At the last minute, we had decided to travel to the Umpqua NF for the weekend instead of Olympic National Park. We did not do any proper research on what was in the area due to the last minute change and came unprepared without a topographic map. Illahee Rock Lookout was marked on our general road atlas and seemed to even note the Forest Service road needed to get there. It appeared to be direct and we figured we would give it a shot. We were closer to Steamboat Falls C.G., so we decided to take the back road to get there. We drove my Civic up NF-4760 that is just past the campground. The road was in great condition and we became optimistic as we caught a glimpse of the lookout sitting on the ridge. My car made it all the way to the junction with NF-300 where there was a deep patch of snow covering the road. We decided we were close enough to reach the lookout via a road hike and parked the car in a pullout. We started to trudge through the snow banks on the road, alternating between clear patches and deep snow. We came to a sharp fork in the road where neither of the roads had a visible number sign. It appeared to us that the main road continued straight and the road that sharply turned was a spur road. Later, we would come to find out it was the opposite. We continued straight on this road for miles, walking up and over a ridge that we assumed to be Ragged Butte. We even came to a junction that appeared to have parking and an old gate like you would find near a fire lookout. We continued down this road assuming we were finally at the road junction leading to the lookout trail. We even passed an extremely large rock that we assumed had to be Bartrums Rock or even Illahee Rock itself. It wasn’t until we met the road’s dead end that we realized how far off track we truly were. When I say we were hopeful that we were on the right track, I mean that we were so sure it was around the next corner that we convinced ourselves to hike 7.77 miles away from my car. Which meant we had to hike another 7.77 miles back. We didn’t make it back to the car until well past dark and got back to camp closer to midnight. To make matters worse, I had neglected to fully charge my headlamp before coming and we had to rely on my partner’s light on the way back. When I finally saw the reflection from our light on my Honda, I cried tears of joy.

After consulting a much better map upon our return to Portland, we realized we had ended up on NF-100. The ridge we thought was Ragged Butte was actually Dog Mountain. The junction with the gate was NF-120, which wasn’t marked. Otherwise, we would have known to turn around sooner. And the rock we saw was Limpy Rock, not Bartrums. After such a complete failure we were determined to redeem ourselves and make it to Illahee Rock Lookout as soon as humanly possible.

ILLAHEE ROCK LOOKOUT REDEMPTION! We decided on our next free weekend we would drive down early Saturday morning to hike to Illahee Rock Lookout and then camp at Steamboat Falls C.G. for a night before heading home. We did more research on the area, packed a better map, and decided to go up the more conventional route on the other side of NF-4760. This side of the road is just as well maintained and I had no issues driving my Civic up it. We were once again met with snow on the road and pulled my car into another pull out. This time I was happy to find we were just a 1/2 mile short of the junction with NF-100 (same number but different road from the last time we were in this area). We walked along this road until we met with NF-104, which leads to the trailhead. We were once again optimistic! That is until we rounded the corner and were met with deep snow drifts. Feeling uneasy about another trudge through more snow I convinced my partner we should go up the “other trail.” It was on the more exposed side of the mountain and in theory, would be snow free. According to the topographic map of this area there are two trails that lead up to Illahee Rock Lookout, one originating south of the lookout and one beginning north of the lookout. After backtracking, we started to search for where the other trail should be according to the map. At one point we found a game trail that we followed for a while but it only led to Bartrums Rock and wasn’t on the correct side of the road. We searched again and found an old road that might have led to where we needed to go but was too overgrown to know for sure. Accepting that this trail no longer exists, we backtracked again to NF-104. We made our way over the snow banks until we found the actual trailhead. It does exist! From there it is supposed to be a little less than a mile one way.

We started up the official Illahee Lookout trail #1539. We crossed one major snow bank that was easy to maneuver on a gradual slope. The trail seemed to be mostly snow free as we switchbacked up. It wasn’t until we went around to the northern side of the trail that we found we were wrong again. We became frustrated, knowing that we were so close to this lookout. However, these snowbanks were different than the ones we faced on the roads, they were now sloping off of a cliff covering a narrow trail. My fear of falling kicked in and I opted to turn around. My partner is more headstrong and was not going to leave without seeing this lookout. I decided to wait on the trail while he continued on over the snow. I waited there for a while hoping for the best and fearing the worst. I started to hear someone whistling down the trail and assumed it was him on his jolly way back. I was shocked to see another couple come around the bend instead of him. I was so shocked that I didn’t even bother to ask them if they saw my partner or how the trail conditions were. I could only muster up a “hello” as they passed by. I figured that if there were other people on this trail then it couldn’t be that bad around the corner and maybe I should have attempted to hike up the trail as well. Soon after my partner returned and told me how close we were. He claimed there weren’t too many snow banks to cross and it wasn’t as bad as it looked. He also told me that there were no footprints in the snow before his, so the couple we saw somehow climbed up the talus slope on the other side. They might have been crazier than us to try that from what I saw on that side of the mountain. After talking it over for a while he was able to convince me to head up the rest of the way to the lookout. It took a lot of hand holding and a bit of tears for me to make it because once I rounded the first snowbank there were many more to face and they were worse than I thought. I used kick steps to shuffle my way up and down them but my anxiety didn’t subside until I returned to the spot where I had originally waited for my partner.

History.

The whole day we had been circling this butte it had been clouded in fog. But now that we were both on the summit it had cleared out to a spectacular view. The original D-6 Cupola from 1925 is still standing and was converted to a tool shed in 1958. The L-4 tower was built in 1956 when the D-6 was considered too small to house two fire lookouts. Illahee Rock Lookout does not appear to be actively staffed anymore since there was no longer a solar panel when we visited. It might still be staffed in high fire danger but I couldn’t find any information to confirm.

Illahee Rock Lookout is a short, two mile round trip hike with roughly 600 feet of elevation gain. But in total we ended up hiking 24.74 miles trying to get to this lookout. The moral of the story is this: don’t go chasing fire lookouts in early spring!

More Information.

US Forest Service

AllTrails